Texas Alamo and Beyond

Texas Road Trip: A Journey Through Time and Land

“Not all those who wander are lost.” – J.R.R. Tolkien

My journey to Texas was sparked by Philipp Meyer’s novel, “The Son.” This multi-generational epic chronicles a Texas family’s saga—from the Comanche Indian raids of the 1800s to 20th-century oil booms. Meyer maps out a legacy of violence, ambition, and the cost of power, painting a vivid portrait of Texas. The characters in the novel fascinated me, compelling me to experience and better understand Texas’ unique culture for myself.

I sought to uncover whether Texas was merely a state or truly a state of mind. Visiting museums, conversing with locals, and absorbing its culture, I came to realize that Texas is more than geography—it is an attitude, a way of life. And what better place to put this to the test than the Alamo, a site that embodies the resilience, identity, and unyielding spirit of Texas?

Houston, We Have a Mission: NASA’s Quest for Mars

The next frontier is Mars, and sometime in the 2030s, humans will set foot on its dusty terrain. The journey will take two to three years, requiring water, food, and life-sustaining instruments. At the Space Center in Houston, I glimpsed how NASA is reshaping technology and science to explore the unknown.

From certain angles, exhibits like a spaceship engine cropped into a camera’s lens look like modern art installations. In many ways, I think the fusion of science and artistic vision is what pushes innovation forward.

The Menil Collection: An Oasis of Art in Houston

Houston’s vibrant art scene surprised me, largely due to Dominique and John de Menil’s contributions. Their expansive collection is housed in several buildings, nestled in a neighborhood of craftsman-style homes surrounded by lush greenery. Unlike much of Texas, Houston appeared lush and water-abundant, a contrast to the arid landscapes I would later explore.

My primary goal was to visit the Rothko Chapel, a place I had long wanted to experience. The other exhibits, including Dan Flavin’s fluorescent light installations and Cy Twombly’s expressive canvases, were an unexpected and delightful bonus.

More about the Menil Collection

The Rothko Chapel: A Monument to Silence and Contemplation

“We saw what a great master can do for a religious building when he is given a free hand. He can exalt and uplift as no one else.” – Dominique de Menil, on commissioning Mark Rothko to create a sacred space for Houston.

The Rothko Chapel is a nondenominational, architectural, and artistic retreat designed to induce introspection. Rothko’s monumental, near-black canvases, tinged with deep purples, demand silence. The weight of human tragedy, ecstasy, and doom, themes Rothko frequently explored, is unmistakable. Knowing that these paintings were his final major work before his suicide adds another layer of depth to the experience.

More about the Rothko Chapel

Exploring the History and Culture of Galveston and Central Texas

“Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” – Ibn Battuta

Driving along the Gulf of Mexico shoreline, I reached Galveston, a city with a history of wealth, drama, and resilience. The hurricane of 1900 wiped out much of its grandeur, but remnants of its Victorian past, like the Bishop’s Palace, still stand as a testament to its former prosperity.

A Scenic Drive Through the Heart of Texas History

Two days of driving through Central Texas revealed a land of forests, rolling hills, and pastoral farmlands. This region was home to settlers, political factions, and Native American tribes, most notably the Comanche, whose influence remains ingrained in the Texas story.

Westward to Fredericksburg: A German-Texan Legacy

The drive westward passed through oak and juniper forests, eventually leading me to Fredericksburg, a small town famous for its German heritage and wineries. Nearby, the Guadalupe River carved its way through the landscape, offering moments of natural serenity before the road led me to the most iconic stop: San Antonio and the Alamo.

The Alamo: A Story of Resilience, Hope, and Identity

San Antonio has long been one of the most popular travel destinations in the United States. It is home to historical sites like the Alamo, which serves as a reminder of Texas’ unique and vibrant spirit. This spirit has inspired not just Texans but people all across the world to visit this city.

The Alamo is an excellent place to pause and ask how a nation’s heritage, identity, character, and dreams are created. Every nation has its unique heritage, identity, character, and dreams created through history and experiences. Nations have unique stories of resilience, hope, courage, and success. These stories are often shared as a source of pride and identity. Additionally, they can help to create a sense of belonging and collective purpose.

The Alamo is a heroic story of Texans taking matters into their own hands and fighting for what is right. This event created a mark of identity: who we are, what the land means for us, what we will stand for, and who we will become. People saw Texas as a place of possibilities that are made, not given. And this is why Texas is a state of mind!

Tomorrow I will start driving to west Texas, Marfa, and the desert. And being in the desert is, without a doubt, a state of mind I love.

Big Bend National Park: Nature’s Untamed Majesty

“Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” – Gustave Flaubert

It’s not one of the famous National Parks; it is certainly far and difficult to reach. And maybe that’s why it is one of the least-visited national parks. After a drive that took me 10 hours (with many stops), I arrived at Chisos Mountains Lodge. The picturesque landscape blew me away. The sky was a deep blue, and the sweeping panoramic views of the mountains filling the horizon were breathtaking.

The park takes its name from the U-shaped bend of the Rio Grande bordering the park, providing a natural border between the United States and Mexico. It’s not precisely “Grande,” as the water level is low due to drought that has left much of the river dry. You can cross the river into Mexico on foot at some points, although signs warn that it’s illegal. I noticed a significant presence of border patrol cars in the park and the surrounding area.

Terlingua: A Haunting Remnant of the Past

As I drove along the road, I encountered several small towns, one of which was Terlingua. Once a bustling mining community, it now remains a ghost town with only a few brave souls who have chosen to make their home in this remote and picturesque place. Curiosity led me to explore the abandoned mines and deserted buildings for an hour. The desolation was palpable, and the eeriness of the empty streets and silent buildings added to the unsettling atmosphere. The scorching summer heat, coupled with the distance from any major city, made me imagine the difficulty of survival that humans must have faced in this area.

Marfa: The Mysterious Creative Haven of West Texas

While “big” may be the watchword for Texas, it doesn’t mean that every single person or place here is larger than life. Some of the “coolest” and most exciting cities in West Texas are small ones. Spring’s colorful blossoms made the drive much longer because I had to stop every five minutes to photograph the scenery.

Marfa is a state of mind all on its own. A small town of 2,000 has become a haven for artists due to its captivating landscapes and small-town ambiance. The west Texas town became a magnet for creative spirits in 1971 when Donald Judd, a renowned Minimalist artist, moved to Marfa. He disdained the city art scene and wanted to create permanent installations for his sculptures.

I was deeply impressed by the spacious living compound he created for himself and his two children; he was a single parent. He converted two large warehouses in what used to be part of a military base into working, living, and library spaces, interwoven and neatly organized, accented with furniture that he designed. Today, two foundations are working to maintain his legacy, managing exhibition spaces and other activities, including several artists’ residency programs, which attract a stream of interesting people. 

More about my impressions of Marfa and Donald Judd

Marfa is famous for the mysterious lights that sometimes appear in the night sky across the Chinati Mountains. It’s a phenomenon yet to be explained, which we did not see but met others who swear by it. Marfa was also the filming location of Giant, James Dean’s last movie.

It was a great place and with even a delightful company, Danna Sigal, to end a two-week tour of 2300 miles (3700 km) from East to West Texas. Texas is not just land; it’s a mentality. It’s about resilience, vast possibilities, and a culture of independence. 

April – May 2015