North India Stunning Landscape

Table of Contents

North India: The Enchanting Northern India Landscape.

A road trip exploration of Ladakh, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh, and Uttarakhand

“India is beyond statement, for anything you say, the opposite is also true. It’s rich and poor, spiritual and material, cruel and kind, angry but peaceful, ugly and beautiful, and smart but stupid. It’s all the extremes.” – Sarah Macdonald

In my 20s, after completing three years of service in the Israeli Army, I embarked on a nearly two-year journey across the globe. That chapter of my life planted a deep love for exploration and curiosity about the world. Decades later, when my son Tomer set out on his world adventure after college graduation, joining him for part of the ride felt natural. Northern India became our chosen destination, and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to share this experience. After all, one of my guiding philosophies is that life is more about the experiences we gather than the possessions we accumulate.

More about my early 20s world tour.

New Delhi and Jama Masjid Mosque

We arrived in New Delhi to meet Tomer, and our journey began with a visit to the Jama Masjid Mosque—the largest mosque in India, with the capacity to hold 25,000 worshippers. It was Ramadan, and the air felt charged with reverence, endurance, and community spirit. The oppressive heat and humidity were palpable, especially for the fasting worshippers. I couldn’t help but wonder whether the strain I felt was my projection or a reflection of their shared struggle. Despite the challenging conditions, the people we encountered were warm and welcoming, with an uplifting energy that seemed to defy the discomfort.

Danna became an instant celebrity, drawing crowds eager for group photos and critiques of her artistic sketches. Watching her engage with strangers in such a joyful and spontaneous way added another layer of meaning to the experience—it was a small but profound reminder of how connection transcends language, culture, and circumstance.

We’ll take an early flight to Leh in Ladakh tomorrow to begin our Himalayan adventure. The anticipation of exploring such a dramatic and remote landscape feels electric. Northern India promises to be a journey of extremes, where beauty and challenge coexist at every turn. I can’t wait to see how this next chapter unfolds.

LADAKH

Travel Route: Leh – Thiksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Khardung La Pass – Nubra Valley – Diskit Monastery – Sumur Monastery – Leh

Leh: Meditating on Buddha’s wisdom

Yesterday, as I sat facing the serene Buddha sculpture, I was reminded of a profound choice we all have to make in moments of discomfort. It’s a familiar scenario: negotiating with an Indian merchant who promises what you want to hear but ultimately delivers only what they can.

When it happened to me yesterday morning—never mind the small details—I felt a cascade of emotions: annoyance, disappointment, frustration, even anger. I’m sure many of you have experienced this, and as a side note, these feelings and situations are by no means exclusive to India.

At that moment, the Buddha’s presence offered a gentle reminder: dwelling on such emotions is an act of self-inflicted suffering. The real question is, how does one move forward?

Thiksey Monastery: A Spiritual Haven

Later, we visited the renowned Thiksey Monastery, which truly embodies tranquility and reflection. Perched on a hill, the monastery’s architecture resembles the iconic Potala Palace of Lhasa, Tibet, with its multi-tiered structure, vibrant colors, and intricate Tibetan artwork.

The main assembly hall is home to the towering statue of Maitreya Buddha, a breathtaking symbol of compassion and hope for the future. Fluttering prayer flags and the rhythmic hum of monks chanting create an almost otherworldly atmosphere—a perfect counterbalance to the earlier frustrations.

Shey Palace

Constructed in the 17th century by King Deldan Namgyal, Shey Palace once served as the summer retreat for the Ladakhi royal family. It remained the capital of Ladakh until the royals relocated to Leh. Today, Shey Palace is celebrated for its historical and architectural significance, offering visitors a glimpse into Ladakh’s regal past and cultural heritage.

Khardung La Pass

The journey to Khardung La Pass, the highest motorable pass in the world at 18,380 feet (5,602 meters), is nothing short of exhilarating. The Nubra road zigzags up a rugged, bare-rock mountain, eventually descending into the stunning Nubra Valley. The stark, high-desert landscape is awe-inspiring, with every twist and turn offering breathtaking views that feel almost otherworldly. View the road trip from a motorcycle perspective.

Tashi, our driver, shared a sobering perspective on the road’s condition, noting that despite decades of ongoing construction, it has worsened due to climate change. Fifteen years ago, the snow blanketing Khardung La extended down to Leh, even during summer. Today, that snowline has retreated, a visual reminder of the profound environmental shifts taking place.

Reflection on Buddha’s Teachings

Buddha’s memorable words have always resonated with me:

“Believe not because an old book is produced as an authority. Believe not because your father said [you should] believe the same. Believe not because other people like you believe it. Test everything, try everything, and then believe it, and if you find it for the good of many, give it to all.” And then he added: “Be a light to yourselves, seek no other, and never give up.”

This enduring wisdom, spoken at the end of his life, encourages us to rely on inner strength and persevere, even amid challenges as vast as the mountains. It also reminded me of the importance of curiosity, inquiry, and sharing wisdom that uplifts others.

There is a peculiar liberation in surrendering to a journey without the need to control its course. The roads of Ladakh, the shifting landscapes, and even the unpredictability of negotiations with merchants—all serve as reminders that control is often an illusion. The true essence of travel, like life itself, is not in orchestrating every detail but in embracing each twist and turn with grace. It is in these moments of letting go that I find the most unexpected joy.

The Nubra River and Sachin Glacier

The Nubra River flows nearby, descending from the Sachin Glacier—a heavily disputed area and the world’s highest battleground between India and Pakistan. Military truck convoys, checkpoints, and bases dot the roads, a stark reminder of the region’s geopolitical significance. Yet, despite this, the natural beauty of Nubra Valley remains undiminished, exuding a sense of peace in the face of complexity.

Diskit Monastery

In Nubra Valley, we visited the Diskit Monastery, perched atop a hill surrounded by snow-capped peaks. Beyond its religious significance, the monastery offers breathtaking panoramic views of the valley, a tranquil landscape that invites reflection. It’s a place where you feel time slow down, offering the space to contemplate life’s bigger questions.

Sumur Monastery and Thangka Art

Sumur Monastery introduced me to the mesmerizing artistry of thangkas, Buddhist painting scrolls revered for their spiritual and cultural significance. These intricately painted scrolls, often on fabric or paper, depict deities, mandalas, and sacred symbols.

Thangkas are more than art; they are visual representations of Buddhist teachings and a source of meditation and devotion. Their profound symbolism and meticulous craftsmanship make them cultural treasures that transcend time. While I lack the trained eye to grasp their full evolution across centuries, their vibrancy—dominated by orange, gold, and burgundy hues—testifies to tradition’s enduring power.

Reflection

Altitude changes more than just the air we breathe—it shifts our inner landscape, too. As we ascended from the dense, chaotic energy of Delhi to the thin, crisp air of Leh, I felt an internal recalibration. The higher we climbed, the quieter my thoughts became. Perhaps it is the proximity to the vastness of nature, or maybe it is simply that, at such heights, the things we once clung to seem smaller, less urgent. Traveling at this altitude is an invitation—not just to explore but to lighten the weight of what we carry within

Travel Route: Leh – Hemis Monastery – Tso Moriri Lake – Korzok – Pang – Nakila La Pass

Hemis Monastery

We visited Hemis Monastery during a rehearsal for an upcoming festival, an experience that felt alive with energy and devotion. Hemis Monastery holds a special place in the hearts of the local community and Buddhist followers worldwide. As the main seat of the Drukpa lineage in Ladakh, it is a vital center for the preservation of Tibetan Buddhist culture, housing a large community of monks and embodying deep-rooted spiritual traditions.

I was reminded of a passage from Forrest Curran’s Purple Buddha Project: Purple Book of Self-Love: “At times, we will be asked to let go of things that we have always wanted to keep for ourselves… A tree never hesitates to shake off her leaves during fall, and so we must take another lesson given to us by nature: let go when it is time… Focus within your mind, the image of the lotus prospering above the mud. We are the lotus; rise above.”

Sitting in the monastery, I reflected on these words. The teachings of impermanence are woven into Ladakh’s landscapes, culture, and spiritual essence. As Curran describes, the act of letting go is not a loss but an opportunity to rise above—to thrive like the lotus.

Indus River and Tso Moriri Lake

On the road to Tso Moriri Lake, we bid farewell to the iconic Indus River, a waterway steeped in history and myth. Near Mahe, Tibetan prayer flags fluttered in the wind on a footbridge, spreading mantras of peace and happiness. According to Buddhist tradition, these flags carry blessings to all beings touched by the wind—a small yet profound gesture of interconnectedness.

Tso Moriri itself is a place of raw, untouched beauty. Korzok, the lake’s only settlement, offers a glimpse into Ladakhi life through its simple homestays. Staying in one of these humble guesthouses was one of the most authentic experiences of our journey. Tomer called it “the most badass place” he’d visited so far. Here, luxury takes on a new definition—it’s not about worldly comforts but the vastness of nature and the company of loved ones.

For those curious about this breathtaking region, here’s a glimpse.

On the Road to Peng, Jispa through Nakila La Pass

The journey from Korzok to Peng, and later to Jispa through Nakila La Pass, was a feast for the senses. The desert landscape—my personal favorite—stretched endlessly, with an uninterrupted horizon line that made me feel deeply connected to something greater. I choose to call that connection God. The ever-changing colors of the terrain resembled abstract paintings, each scene begging to be etched not just in photographs but in the vault of memory.

Arriving in Jispa, nestled in the Lahaul Valley along the Bhaga River, felt like finding a sanctuary. Its serene atmosphere, combined with the stunning Himalayan backdrop, made it an ideal stopover. It offered rare moments of quiet reflection amidst nature’s grandeur, allowing us to pause and absorb the beauty around us.

Travel Route: Nakila La Pass – Jispa – Keylong – Rohtang La Pass – Manali – Dharamshala

Reflections on the Leh-Manali Route

The Leh to Manali route is legendary for a good reason. Lonely Planet describes it as: “Utterly beautiful but exhaustingly spine-jangling, this is a ride you won’t forget. The Upshi-Keylong section crosses four passes over 4900m, and then there’s the infamously unpredictable Rohtang La Pass before Manali.”

We traversed this rugged and awe-inspiring route, passing through Nakila La Pass and the iconic Rohtang La Pass before reaching Manali. Each leg of the journey was a testament to the unforgiving nature of the terrain and the magnificence of the Himalayas.

As we traveled, Tomer picked up basic Ladakhi and Hindi phrases from Tashi, our ever-patient driver. By the end, he was exchanging small but meaningful conversations with locals. These moments of connection, however brief, added a layer of depth to the journey, bridging cultures with simple words and warm smiles.

The road itself was as much a part of the experience as the destinations. From the stark desert beauty to the verdant valleys, every turn felt like stepping into a different painting. The silence of Jispa, the unpredictable challenges of the route, and the camaraderie with locals reminded me that travel isn’t just about reaching a place—it’s about embracing every moment along the way.

For those inspired by this legendary adventure, here’s a visual guide to fuel your wanderlust: Visual Journey Through Leh to Manali

Dancing on top Rohtang La Pass

The roads in India are perpetually under construction, a spectacle in itself. Watching the labor-intensive methods workers use—often by hand—is fascinating and humbling. What’s even more remarkable is that traffic never stops despite the construction. In the U.S., it’s hard to imagine such a scenario; the road would likely remain closed until every detail was completed.

At the summit of Rohtang La Pass, surrounded by breathtaking Himalayan views, we found ourselves dancing to the end of time—a spontaneous celebration of the journey, the altitude, and the sheer joy of being present in the moment.

Indian Road Signs: Witty Wisdom

One of the quirks that makes Indian roads memorable is the humor and wisdom displayed on their road signs. Along the 18-hour drive from Leh to Manali, which winds over five mountain passes, these signs serve a vital purpose: promoting safe driving on roads notorious for their sharp switchbacks. As we ascended Rohtang La, the landscape transformed into lush greenery, and the signs became our unexpected entertainment.

Some of my favorite road signs:

Enemies of the road: liquor, speed & load

Drive on horsepower, not on rum power

If you speed, your family won’t sleep

Make love, not war—but nothing while driving

Keep your nerves on sharp curves

Don’t gossip; let him drive

Driving risky after whisky

Alert today, alive tomorrow

Each sign carries a blend of wit and wisdom, offering a lighthearted reminder to stay alert—a necessity on roads like these. For those curious about this epic journey, here’s more about the Rohtang Pass.

Manali

Nestled in the lap of the mighty Himalayas, Manali is a beloved hill station and a haven for travelers seeking both natural beauty and cultural experiences.

A short distance from the bustling town lies Old Manali, a charming, restful village with a bohemian vibe that draws young adventurers, particularly Israelis, on their post-military rite of passage. The energy here is distinct—laid-back and free-spirited, a place to pause, reflect, and connect.

India’s vibrant democracy is alive and well, often reflected in the headlines of English-language newspapers. Skimming through them offers a glimpse into the country’s dynamic and sometimes chaotic pulse, a reminder of its complexity and resilience.

The Construction Site in Dharamshala

The construction site scene in Dharamshala is captivating on so many levels. At first glance, it’s a visual spectacle—an intricate dance of movement, colors, and coordination. But then, my thoughts wander to the details: the construction methods, the essential role women play, the remarkable carrying techniques, and the stark contrast between the cost of labor versus machinery.

As I watched, a sense of sympathy began to creep in—seeing the hard, physical labor under tough conditions. But then I remembered something Tashi, our driver, once told us in a different but similar context: “It’s a job!” He said it with a simple yet profound pride, reminding me that there’s honor in work—any work.

In this context, the scene takes on a different meaning. It’s not just about the labor itself but about the resilience, strength, and appreciation for having a livelihood. There’s something humbling in that perspective—a reminder to look beyond appearances and acknowledge the dignity inherent in effort and purpose.

Journey with Geshe Lhakdor: Exploring Buddhism and Tibetan Culture in Dharamshala

For ten days, Geshe Lhakdor, a leading Buddhist scholar entrusted by the Dalai Lama with preserving Tibetan culture in exile, guided us in Dharamshala. Alongside thirty-five university students from across India, I witnessed an incredible exchange of ideas—pure joy for a curious mind. This shift from sightseeing to introspection deepened my understanding of Buddhism, for which I’m immensely grateful.

Daily rainstorms cleanse the air, leaving misty clouds drifting below our McLeod Ganj balcony. While surreal, this weather adds a reflective backdrop to an already transformative experience. Meanwhile, unrest in the Kashmir Valley has redirected us to Amritsar to explore Sikhism.

Buddhist Proverbs and Reflections

During my stay, I gathered profound Buddhist teachings, including some associated with the Dalai Lama:

“To whom emptiness is possible, everything is possible.”

“Don’t make your mind like a feather—don’t overreact to joy or despair.”

“Living right is about preparing for death.”

“Meditation is habituation with positive emotions, cultivating compassion.”

The Dalai Lama’s “Paradox of Our Age” resonates deeply in today’s fast-paced world:

“We have bigger houses but smaller families, more conveniences but less time, more degrees but less sense… These are times of fast food but slow digestion, steep profits but shallow relationships.”

Letting go of pain while learning from it, forgiving others for the sake of personal peace, and embracing life with intent are recurring themes.

Meditation on Dying

One powerful reminder:

“We live as though tomorrow is certain, endlessly accumulating possessions and projects, yet death can come in the next moment. True wisdom lies in preparing for it.”

For a glimpse into these teachings, here’s a video by Geshe Lhakdor: Exploring Tibetan Culture.

PUNJAB

Travel Route: Amritsar – Chandigarh – Kalka – Shimla

Amritsar

Amritsar is an assault on the senses—chaotic, polluted, messy, and perpetually under construction. The oppressive heat and humidity feel like stepping into a steam bath, while the traffic and crowds, especially around the Golden Temple, redefine personal space. Yet, amidst this sensory overload, two experiences stood out: the Border Crossing Ceremony and the Golden Temple, each magnificent in its way.

The Border Crossing Ceremony

Every evening around 5 PM, the India-Pakistan border transforms into a theater of patriotism. The Wagah Border Crossing Ceremony is a spectacular, almost theatrical event featuring soldiers marching with exaggerated precision, resembling proud peacocks. Thousands of spectators on both sides cheer wildly, with the Indian side turning into a high-energy celebration, complete with music and dancing.

Some may call it the “most ridiculous ceremony,” but I found it a delightful paradox: a celebration of national pride that, despite its absurdity, fosters a spirit of connection. If all conflicts could end in ceremonies like this, I’d embrace “ridiculous” every day.

Watch the Wagah Border Ceremony.

The Golden Temple

Plated in gold, the Golden Temple is mesmerizing, especially when illuminated at night. Thousands of pilgrims flock to this sacred Sikh site, filling the air with an energy of devotion and unity. Sikhism’s emphasis on equality starkly contrasts Hinduism’s caste system, making the temple not just a visual marvel but a profound symbol of inclusivity.

Chandigarh

In stark contrast to Amritsar’s vibrant chaos, Chandigarh, designed by Swiss architect Le Corbusier in the 1950s, feels subdued and sterile. Its spacious streets, parks, and concrete-dominated architecture are organized to a fault.

While the city’s modernist design was ambitious, it lacks the soul of traditional Indian towns. There are no lively bazaars or mixed-income neighborhoods, elements that bring warmth and life to Indian cities. Chandigarh has space, but it feels lifeless.

The Rock Garden

Amid Chandigarh’s monotony, the Rock Garden stands out as a surreal escape. It’s a fantastical sculpture complex created from debris salvaged from 50 villages destroyed to build the city. It feels like stepping into a lost kingdom. This whimsical art installation challenges how we think about waste, turning trash into something extraordinary.

Explore the Rock Garden.

Reflection

Amritsar and Chandigarh couldn’t be more different. Amritsar thrives in its chaos, offering raw and vibrant experiences that push your boundaries, while Chandigarh feels detached with its rigid modernity. India constantly challenges your perceptions, whether through Amritsar’s joyous clamor or Chandigarh’s eerie stillness. It’s a reminder that beauty and meaning can be found in contrasts.

HIMACHAL PRADESH

Shimla

Shimla, the former summer capital of British India, is picturesque, touristy, and filled with charming pedestrian-only streets. We arrived via the Kalka-Shimla Toy Train, a narrow-gauge railway built in 1906—an engineering marvel and a scenic ride.

A highlight was the Vice Regal Lodge, where partition negotiations among Gandhi, Nehru, and Jinnah once took place. Standing in the same room stirred my imagination and historical curiosity.

Shimla also gave me my inevitable “India moment”—falling ill. I took it as a chance to recharge before tackling the rugged Kinnaur-Spiti Valley Loop.

India’s animals—cows, dogs, and monkeys—roam freely, embodying a strange sense of contentment. On one car ride, a cow leisurely blocked our lane, prompting our driver to laugh and say, “I love my India.” Moments like this remind me of India’s joyful acceptance of its chaos.

The Kalka-Shimla Toy Train.

Travel Route: Shimla – Kinnaur District – Rampur – Sangla – Chitkul – Kalpa – Nako – Tabo

Kinnaur District and Rampur

Traveling through India’s endless strings of human habitation along roads and rails, I wondered how landscapes between destinations would look. Approaching Kinnaur, the scenery shifted dramatically at elevations above 3,000m—lush green mountains, apple orchards, and hair-raising roads. Tibetan influence here is unmistakable, blending with Hindu traditions. Buddha and Kali, the goddess known for destroying ego and sin, coexist in temples.

We stopped to pray for a safe journey, donating to Kali, whose black skin represents her ferocity and power. It felt grounding to honor this ancient tradition before continuing on the winding roads.

A Mudslide Encounter

Mudslides are a common occurrence here. When we encountered one, we joined others in waiting as rocks were cleared, and then our driver, Kuldep, was one of the first to brave the unstable path. The scene, with brightly painted trucks against a lush green backdrop, was striking.

The many dogs that lay around seem relaxed and timid during the daytime. Yet, at night, they bark to no end. I asked our driver if he heard the barking, and he said no. I, on the other hand, wake up a few times every night to their barking sound. It reminded me of long night walks years ago when I was a soldier in the Israeli Army. Why do dogs bark? It might be fear, guarding instincts, or a call of longing.

Sangla, Chitkul and Kalpa

India’s love for vibrant colors is a feast for the senses—whether in women’s saris, decorative trucks, or temple exteriors, the hues uplift the mood and brighten even the starkest landscapes.

Chitkul, the last village near the Tibetan border, feels frozen in time. Two elderly locals recalled the excitement of seeing their first white visitor in 1959, an American hunter who arrived when they were in fifth grade. The village road only arrived in 1966, and electricity followed in 1979. Listening to their stories was a reminder of how quickly modernity reshapes ancient ways of life.

In Kalpa, the mist-covered mountain regarded as the mythical home of Lord Shiva—Kinnaur Kailash—loomed majestically. The spirituality of the place felt palpable, enhanced by the mist and the timeless traditions surrounding it.

Why Chitkul Village is a Must-Visit.

Hindustan – Tibet Road

Hindustan – Tibet Road

The famous Hindustan-Tibet Road is a continuous sequence of breathtaking landscapes, plunging valleys, and challenging twists. Dubbed by Lonely Planet as “one of Asia’s great and most challenging road trips,” this 19th-century British-engineered road was intended to connect India and Tibet. Yet, even now, it remains unfinished—a detail my critical mind loves to fixate on.

But then, my observer self steps in, gently reminding me to quiet the noise and savor the present moment—one that will never come again. Besides, the scenery is spectacular, an ever-changing feast for the eyes and spirit.

Our driver, Kuldep (or “Cool-Deep,” as I like to call him), is both skilled and protective, navigating these Himalayan roads with unmatched confidence. Watching him maneuver past slow-moving trucks on these precarious roads is a masterclass in precision.

Watch Himalayan Driving Skills.

Nako

Perched at 3,662 meters (12,014 feet), Nako is a magical medieval village with stone and mud brick houses. Yet, I sense these traditional homes may soon disappear under the wave of modern construction.

Nearby lies Nako Lake, a crystal-clear body of water framed by willow and poplar trees—a serene contrast to the rugged terrain.

Reading Gregory David Roberts’ Shantaram in this setting feels fitting:

“Reality as you see it is nothing more than an illusion. There is another reality behind what we see with our eyes. You have to feel your way into that reality with your heart.”

Discover Nako

Tabo Monastery

For me, the emptiness of the high desert is more compelling than lush greenery. Amid this stark beauty lies Tabo Monastery, founded in 996 CE. It is one of the oldest continuously operating monastic complexes in the Himalayas, holding immense cultural, historical, and religious importance.

Tabo’s timeless architecture and spiritual aura earned it UNESCO World Heritage status in 2010. Walking through its ancient halls is like stepping into another era, one that resonates with quiet wisdom and profound stillness.

Explore Tabo Monastery

Travel Route: Tabo – Dhankar – Kaza – Langza – Hikkim – Komic – Ki Monastery – Kibber – Mudd

Dhankar Monastery 

Perched dramatically on a rocky cliff overlooking the Spiti and Pin Rivers confluence, Dhankar Monastery is over a thousand years old and a spiritual hub for the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. We found a quiet spot to meditate at the hilltop—a moment of serenity amid the rugged terrain.

Explore Dhankar Monastery

On the road from Dhankar to Kaza

Kaza: The capital of Spiti Valley

The word Spiti means “middle country,” reflecting its location between India and Tibet. The valley is a high-altitude desert, harsh yet mesmerizing. Until two decades ago, foreigners weren’t allowed permits to visit this isolated region.

Locals are ambivalent about modernization. While they desire progress, there’s a deep connection to their environment and traditions. As Rudyard Kipling wrote in Kim: “A world within a world and a place where the Gods live.”

Langza, Hikkim, and Komic

These villages, perched at over 4,000 meters, exude a desolate beauty. Clusters of whitewashed mud-brick homes surrounded by barley and green pea fields give the area an almost otherworldly feel. Spiti’s culture remains introverted, centered around its monasteries, preserving a way of life untouched for centuries.

Watch Spiti Valley’s Charm.

Ki Monastery

Arriving at Ki Monastery, we stumbled upon a world-renowned festival filled with vibrant costumes and chanting. Photographers with professional equipment swarmed the event, and for a moment, I felt inadequate with my phone camera. But I let it go, soaking in the festive spirit and the mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum”—said to bring good fortune and cleanse sins.

Tomer’s ever-friendly nature drew locals into conversations. His growing command of Hindi charmed everyone, leading to offers of beedis and weed. Indians’ warmth is infectious; they often ask for selfies or practice their English with travelers.

Discover Ki Monastery.

Mudd: Shaanti on Top of the World

Mudd, the most remote place on our journey, felt like pure peace. Our driver, Kuldep, shared a harrowing story about a landslide that blocked the road for a month last year, forcing him to abandon his car and walk 30 km to safety. This was his first time driving the route since, and I admired his quiet courage as he pointed out the landslide sections.

Reaching Mudd, I felt it would be a crime to leave too soon. We arranged for Kuldep to return to Kaza while we stayed on to soak in the stunning Pin Valley landscape. As we hiked further into the valley, the tilted rock layers reminded us of the immense geological forces at work—the Indian subcontinent’s push into Asia, creating the Himalayas over millions of years.

With its white, gray, and purple ribbons, the Spiti River ran alongside the road like a steadfast companion. In this untouched wilderness, time felt suspended, and nature’s power was humbling.

Reflection

It is a paradox I keep encountering: the further one travels into isolation, the deeper the connections become. In the remoteness of Mudd, where silence stretches for miles, human warmth feels amplified. Conversations linger, smiles hold meaning, and small gestures—like the offer of tea—carry a profound weight. Perhaps we see each other more clearly in places where distractions are few.

Travel Route: Mudd – Losar – Kunzum La Pass – Chandratal Lake – Lahaul Valley – Manali

On the Road to Losar

The people of Spiti Valley are some of the most hospitable I’ve encountered. We’ve often been invited to share tea, meals, or even smoke on our walks. However, the liveliest conversations tend to be with fellow Israelis. Tomer loves practicing his Hebrew, and it’s astonishing how many Israelis travel here—easily 80% of international visitors in this remote Himalayan region. It’s a reminder of Israel’s deep travel culture despite its relatively small population.

Electricity in Spiti is a luxury, not a given. It’s sporadic during the day, and backup generators only run for a few evening hours. Hot water is another challenge; no electricity often means no hot water. My new accommodation criteria? Look for a solar panel and a heated water tank. Wi-Fi is still nonexistent, though trenches are being dug for 4G connectivity—a glimmer of digital hope for the future.

Kunzum La Pass 

At 4,580 meters, Kunzum La Pass connects Spiti Valley with Lahaul Valley. Vehicles perform a respectful circuit of the stupas at the top, honoring the pass’s spiritual significance.

The name “Kunzum” derives from the Tibetan words kun (ten) and zum (gems), referring to the ten majestic peaks encircling the pass—each considered a gem in its own right. Known as the “Gateway to Spiti,” Kunzum La is a breathtaking yet humbling experience.

Kunzum La Pass Scenic Views

Hiking to Chandratal Lake

At 4,270 meters, Chandratal Lake is a pristine glacial lake surrounded by towering 6,000-meter peaks. We hiked to the lake from Kunzum La Pass, captivated by the vivid pink flowers dotting the landscape.

Midway, the weather turned, and pouring rain forced us to seek shelter. We stumbled upon a shepherd’s hut, empty but welcoming. As the rain hammered down, we made ourselves comfortable, grateful for the unexpected refuge. It was a reminder that the mountains demand both respect and adaptability.

Chandratal Lake Beauty

On the Road to Manali through Lahaul Valley

The Lahaul Valley, nestled between Rohtang Pass and Baralacha Pass, is a high-altitude desert with a stark, rugged beauty. Its barren terrain, sparse vegetation, and dramatic rocky landscapes exude a raw, untouched charm. The winters here are harsh, marked by heavy snowfall, while summers are mild and welcoming.

Historically, Lahaul Valley was completely cut off during winter due to snow-clogged passes. However, with the construction of the Atal Tunnel, connecting Manali to Lahaul, the region is now accessible year-round. This modern engineering marvel has transformed the lives of the indigenous Tibetan-Buddhist communities who call this valley home, opening up new opportunities while maintaining their deep cultural roots.

Travel Route: Manali – Parvati Valley – Tosh – Rishikesh

Parvati Valley – Tosh Village

After sixteen unforgettable days, we bid farewell to our driver, Kuldep. We planned to part ways in Kasol initially, but the town’s vibe didn’t resonate with me. Trusting our instincts, we continued driving for another hour along a dirt road until we reached Tosh village—a place unmarked on our map and unknown to me until we stumbled upon it. A short walk uphill led us to a guesthouse that felt right.

Saying goodbye to Kuldep, who had been both our driver and protector, left me feeling uneasy. His presence had been a steady reassurance, and I had to remind myself to stay in the flow and embrace the uncertainty ahead.

The next day, a nearby landslide sent debris crashing downstream, creating a torrent of gushing water that forced Tomer and his fellow hikers to retreat. Meanwhile, I spent the day on the guesthouse balcony, soaking in the scene—a green forest, shifting white clouds, mules hauling loads up and down the hill, and the hotel owner below my balcony chain-smoking chara (weed) without pause. It was a moment of stillness amidst nature’s raw power and humanity’s persistent rhythm.

Explore the beauty of Parvati Valley and Tosh

UTTARAKHAND

Rishikesh – The Yoga Capital of the World

In Rishikesh, early mornings began with the sound of the Ganges River rushing just a few feet from our room. Across the river, the iconic temples and ashrams of Rishikesh stood tall against the green jungle—a view that seemed almost mythical. On the riverbank, a few men performed their morning ritual, bathing in the sacred waters.

Dubbed the “Yoga Capital of the World” by Lonely Planet, Rishikesh gained global fame when the Beatles visited in the 1960s. Today, it remains a spiritual hub and a magnet for yoga enthusiasts.

I attended 15 yoga classes in Rishikesh, exploring its classical Hatha yoga offerings. Unlike Los Angeles, where yoga styles are diverse and creativity flourishes, the instructors here stayed rooted in traditional practices—minimal props, precise instructions, and expectations of unwavering commitment. Though challenging, the experience was humbling, reminding me of the depth of yoga’s ancient roots.

A glimpse into Rishikesh’s charm

Reflection

Time moves differently here. In Delhi, it pressed against me—fast, urgent, insistent. But in Rishikesh, by the Ganges, it stretches and breathes. I have felt this shift before—on mountaintops, in monasteries, in remote villages where clocks feel irrelevant. Perhaps time is not a fixed force but an experience shaped by how deeply we allow ourselves to be present. And maybe the greatest gift of travel is learning to experience time rather than simply measure it.

In the end, every journey is both outward and inward. The landscapes we traverse often reflect what we carry within—uncertainty in winding roads, stillness in mountain peaks, and joy in the unexpected. The Himalayas, with their grandeur and their challenges, mirrored my own highs and lows. And perhaps that is the greatest lesson of travel: to see the world not just as it is but as a reflection of ourselves.

June – July 2016

Reading Recommendations

Here are some personal reading recommendations for anyone eager to dive deeper into India’s rich history, vibrant culture, and compelling stories. Each book provides a distinct perspective, shedding light on India’s complexity, spirituality, and humanity.

As the list is extensive, I’ve split it into sections, with more recommendations featured on another webpage chronicling a journey through South India.

The Hungry Tide, by Amitav Ghosh

The Shadow Lines, by Amitav Ghosh

White Tiger, by Arvind Adiga

Between the Assassinations: A Novel in Stories, by Aravind Adiga

Interpreter of Maladies, by Jhumpa Lahiri

Life of Pi, by Yann Martel

The God of Small Things, by Arundhati Roy

The Case of the Man Who Died Laughing, by Tarquin Hall

The Case of the Missing Servant, by Tarquin Hall

The Storyteller’s Secret, by Sejal Badani

A History of India, by Michael H. Fisher, The Great Courses

The Story of Indian Business: The East India Company, The World’s Most Powerful Corporation, by Tirthankar Roy

Holy Cow!, An Indian Adventure, by Sarah Macdonald

The Bhagavad Gita, by Eknath Easwaran

The Kama Sutra of Vatsyayana, by Vatsyayana

Age of Vice, by Deepti Kapoor

Midnight’s Furies, The Deadly Legacy of India’s Partition, by Nisid Hajari

The Great Derangement, Climate Change and the Unthinkable, by Amitav Ghosh

Honor, by Thirty Umrigar

Inglorious Empire, by Shashi Taroor

Empireland, by  Sathnam Sanghera