Tecopa Hot Springs
2022: Exploring the Legacy of Borax Mining in the Amargosa River Region and Meeting Interesting People Along the Way
The Amargosa River flows through southern Nevada and eastern California. It’s about 185 miles (298 km) long and runs through the Mojave Desert. It starts in the Amargosa Valley near Beatty, Nevada, and flows southwest into California, emptying into Death Valley, where it disappears into the ground aquifer.
Borax mining used to be big in the Amargosa River region, but it declined due to depleted deposits and more competition. Borax is a natural mineral often used in the production of detergents and glass. Today, borax mining is no longer a major activity in the area, but the legacy of this industry can still be seen in the abandoned mine sites and other remnants of the borax boom.
China Ranch is a date farm and tourist destination along the Amargosa River near Tecopa. It’s popular with birdwatchers and nature lovers and was the start of our hike.
We met John from Denver. He showed and told us a variety of interesting things. The most notable was his tale about a friend who practiced ecstatic dance. “She attempted,” he said, “to reach the other side.” “She almost succeeded,” he added. His appearance and clothing were striking, so I asked if I could take a photo of him with Danna. He was, somewhat unexpectedly, very gracious.
Later, at the natural hot springs, we encountered a man. He told us he had given speeches on top of a hill in Griffith Park. He had walked from LA to the desert. On his eleventh day of walking, a driver picked him up and brought him to the hot springs. He pointed and said, “It’s that naked guy on top of the hill right there.” Despite his frenetic way of speaking, he seemed calm and non-violent.
I love connecting with those who challenge my assumptions and expand my thinking – the non-normative, as I call them. But there were also interactions with more “typical” people, like the couple from Benton, a place with its own share of good stories. And then there was the couple from Paso Robles, who showed us the stars and planets through the mobile app Sky View. It was a rare night – Mars, Saturn, and Venus were all in alignment.
We listened to Dan Chaon’s latest book, “Sleep Walk,” on our drive. His stories are deep and emotional, focusing on characters on the fringes of society. They have a dark, haunting quality that sticks with you long after you’ve finished reading, leaving you wanting more.
We spent many hours at Delight Hot Spring Resort’s hot mineral pool. The rustic accommodations were more than worth it for the pool, which was in a class of its own. Sitting in the pool under the open sky, surrounded by towering mountains and wide-open spaces, was the perfect escape from the bustle of Los Angeles. One evening, we watched the sunset colors spread across the western horizon, and shortly after, a crescent moon rose. On departure day, we woke up early to watch the sunrise on the eastern side, a captivating display of reddish-purple colors.
2021: The Therapeutic Benefits of Natural Hot Springs
Natural hot springs have been celebrated for their therapeutic properties for centuries, with their benefits documented in medical literature for decades. These hot springs are found all around the world. They are distinguished by water temperatures that exceed the surrounding air and even the average human body temperature. The heat that warms these waters originates from the earth’s interior, a phenomenon known as geothermal heat.
Most natural hot springs are safe to soak in, though some can be too hot for comfort or even unsafe. The unique mineral composition of each spring often determines its specific health benefits, making every soak a unique experience.
Potential Benefits of Soaking in Hot Springs
Relaxation – The soothing heat of hot springs helps relax muscles, ease tension, and reduce stress, offering a deep sense of calm.
Improved Circulation – The warm water increases blood flow, enhancing circulation throughout the body and promoting healing and overall vitality.
Pain Relief – Combining heat and buoyancy can alleviate muscle and joint pain, relieving arthritis or general soreness.
Better Sleep – The relaxation induced by a hot spring soak may improve sleep quality, helping you drift off more quickly and stay asleep longer.
Skin Health – Minerals like sulfur, magnesium, and silica found in some hot springs can soothe, soften, and rejuvenate the skin.
Essential Considerations – While natural hot springs offer many benefits, their effects can vary depending on the specific minerals and substances in the water. Some springs contain high concentrations of certain minerals that may not suit everyone. For example:
High sulfur content: While beneficial for the skin, sulfur-rich springs may irritate sensitive skin or worsen certain conditions.
Extreme temperatures: Too hot springs can pose risks, including burns or dehydration.
Natural hot springs are a reminder of the earth’s incredible ability to nurture and heal. Whether you’re seeking relaxation, pain relief, or simply a unique experience, a soak in these geothermal wonders can provide a moment of serenity and renewal.
2020: Making the Most of This COVID Moment
“And once the storm is over, you won’t remember how you made it through, how you managed to survive. You won’t even be sure whether the storm is really over. But one thing is certain. When you come out of the storm, you won’t be the same person who walked in. That’s what this storm’s all about.” – Haruki Murakami, Kafka on the Shore
Even at the best of times, traveling can cause anxiety, and it’s undoubtedly challenging during COVID. It’s a bizarre and adverse moment in our history, and we are doing our best to rise above. The surge in the case numbers during Thanksgiving week in November 2020 engulfed us in a cloud of fear, doubt, and anxiety. It affected our scheduled excursion, or as I like to call it, our pilgrimage to Tecopa Hot Springs and Death Valley.
The original plan was for three generations of our family to be present; we ended up with two. The older generation opted to stay safely under house arrest. We got the COVID test, stocked up on food, and made the intention to keep a proper social distance. Everything was fine! We did not venture out from Delight’s Hot Spring Resort, our new pad in Tecopa.
We spent time soaking in hot mineral water and relaxing in the room. It was relaxing and bodily healing to sit in the pool surrounded by the beige, brown, and white desert colors. It was a memorable few days bonding with our boys, cooking our food, playing Code Words, and sharing our love for yoga.
On the way back, we stopped to assist at an accident scene. A car veered off the road, and by the time it landed 20 yards away, it was brutally damaged, a total loss. The driver, a young Asian woman, tried to keep her composure but couldn’t hide her astonishment for staying all in one piece and intact amidst the disfigured car, sake bottle, and broken dishes strewn about the desert. I said to her, “There is much to be grateful for on this Thanksgiving Day.”
2018: Uncovering the Hidden Oasis in the Desert
2018: Uncovering the Hidden Oasis in the Desert
At first glance, Tecopa seems like a forgotten desert town—bleak and sparse. Located on the southern edge of Death Valley, an hour’s detour from Baker, it greets travelers with scattered trailer homes, two motels that seem frozen in time, and a few hot springs. Barren mountains form its backdrop, and no gas station or store is in sight. Yet, beneath this austere exterior lies an oasis waiting to be discovered.
Founded in 1875, Tecopa traces its roots to the silver-lead ore mines that drew settlers to the Mojave Desert. The town, named after a Paiute leader, briefly thrived with the arrival of the railroad, only to decline as the mines were depleted. Its saving grace came in the form of its natural hot springs, which were later turned over to the county with the stipulation that they remain free to the public.
These mineral-rich waters hold a timeless allure. The Paiute Indians once bathed here, using the mud for its healing properties, and visitors continue the tradition today. I find joy in plunging naked into the warm marsh waters, their temperatures hovering around 100°F. The Tecopa Hot Springs Resort offers modest accommodations alongside tubs filled with 105°F artesian well water, while a bathhouse on a hill serves campers and winter residents.
In summer, Tecopa transforms into a ghost town, as temperatures soar to nearly 120°F—hotter than the springs themselves. But in cooler months, the oasis comes alive, offering respite, rejuvenation, and a glimpse into the enduring beauty of the desert.
Reflections on Tecopa
Through its stark contrasts, Tecopa reveals its hidden charm—a place where the simplicity of desert life intersects with the healing power of nature. Whether it’s adapting to the challenges of a global pandemic or soaking in the storied waters of this quiet town, Tecopa reminds us to find beauty, resilience, and gratitude in every moment.