Alaska Call of the Wild

The Call of the Wild: A Journey Through Alaska’s Scenic Terrain

“Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” – Ibn Battuta

At various junctures in my life, I’ve felt a deep and inexplicable pull—a yearning that Jack London so aptly named the Call of the Wild. The most recent instance of this longing came in July 2017, when, on a whim, I decided to embark on a journey to Alaska. Unlike the rugged adventurers in London’s tales, I traded a rucksack for the modern convenience of a cozy RV, my vessel for exploring the untamed beauty of this majestic state.

My goal was simple yet profound: to connect with nature and immerse myself in the wonders of Alaska’s vast, untouched terrain. Traveling by RV allowed me to experience the raw allure of the wilderness without sacrificing the security and comfort that made long days on the road a delight rather than a challenge.

I squint into the sun, which hangs low in the pale sky. Midnight approaches, yet the sun seems reluctant to leave its perch. The Alaskan summer days feel endless—an enchanting disorientation that dazzles and humbles me. I realize this is my first impression of the journey ahead: a land of permanent light, rugged beauty, and uncharted possibilities.

Travel Route: Anchorage – Denali Park – Fairbanks

The Majestic Beauty of Mount Denali: A Symbol of Alaska’s Wildness

Standing at a breathtaking 20,310 feet above sea level, Mount Denali is the highest peak in North America and a defining emblem of Alaska’s untamed beauty. Often shrouded by clouds—obscured two out of every three days—it remains a powerful symbol of the wilderness even when unseen. Its towering grandeur and imposing presence leave an indelible impression on all who glimpse it.

Beyond its natural splendor, Mount Denali holds profound cultural significance for the indigenous people who have lived in its shadow for centuries, weaving the mountain into their traditions and identity.

Exploring the Role of Sled Dogs in Alaska’s History at Denali National Park

At Denali National Park, I witnessed a sled dog demonstration, a window into Alaska’s rich history and reliance on these remarkable animals. The Alaskan Huskies, known for their long legs and heavily furred tails, are perfectly adapted to the extreme cold. Their tails, which act as scarves, are wrapped around their noses for warmth during harsh winters—a simple yet ingenious survival mechanism.

The demonstration deepened my appreciation for sled dogs’ role in Alaska’s past and present. Sled dog teams typically comprise up to 12 dogs, each with specific roles:

Leaders: Two dogs at the front, crucial for following the musher’s commands and setting direction.

Swing Dogs: Positioned behind the leaders, these dogs help maintain pace and assist in turns.

Team Dogs: The majority of the pack, providing consistent pulling power.

Wheel Dogs: The two strongest dogs closest to the sled, responsible for bearing the weight of the cargo.

Watching these resilient animals in action reminded me of the intricate partnership between humans and dogs that has shaped Alaskan life for generations.

Watch sled dogs.

Reflecting on the Legacy of Christopher McCandless

A few miles north of Denali Park, on the way to Fairbanks, lies the Stampede Trail, forever linked to the story of Christopher McCandless. In 1992, McCandless ventured into the wilderness and tragically passed away in an abandoned school bus—a story immortalized in the book and film Into the Wild.

His journey is a poignant reminder of the wilderness’s unforgiving power; its beauty matched only by its unpredictability. It serves as both a cautionary tale and an inspiration, urging us to embrace life’s adventures while respecting the forces beyond our control.

For many, McCandless’s story resonates deeply, symbolizing the universal search for freedom, meaning, and connection to nature.

Learn more about Christopher McCandless.

Reflections

The journey from Anchorage to Fairbanks through Denali National Park is more than stunning views—it’s a rich blend of history, nature, and resilience. From the towering Mount Denali to the legacy of sled dogs and the haunting story of Christopher McCandless, this route embodies Alaska’s untamed spirit and the lessons it offers to those who explore it.

Travel Route: Fairbanks – Delta Junction – Chitina

The Uniqueness of Fairbanks: A Gateway to the North

Arriving in Fairbanks, I anticipated a small, quiet mining town. Instead, I discovered a thriving city of over 30,000 people, serving as a transportation hub, a center for tourism, and a military stronghold. Fairbanks originated as a gold-mining town in 1901, but the construction of the ALCAN Road during WWII and the Trans-Alaska Pipeline in the 1970s elevated its status as a vital hub for rural Alaskans.

Fairbanks is nestled just 200 miles south of the Arctic Circle, surrounded by vast wilderness. Its location attracts outdoor enthusiasts from around the world, eager to explore the wild beauty of Alaska.

One of the most striking phenomena of Fairbanks is its extreme daylight variation. For someone accustomed to Los Angeles’ consistent day and night cycles, seeing the sunset at 12:47 a.m. only to rise again two hours later is surreal. Even during those “dark” hours, the sky retains a twilight-like glow. This phenomenon, tied to Fairbanks’ proximity to the North Pole, is integral to the city’s rhythm of life.

Fairbanks is also one of the world’s best places to view the Aurora Borealis, a phenomenon that transforms the sky into a canvas of dancing lights. Detailed aurora forecasts from resources like the University of Alaska’s Geophysical Institute help visitors plan their trips to maximize their chances of witnessing this euphoric and spiritual experience.

Watch the Aurora Borealis.

The ALCAN Road: A Journey Through Untamed Nature

The ALCAN Road (Alaska-Canadian Highway) is a historic marvel, constructed in 1942 by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to connect the contiguous United States to Alaska via Canada. Built in less than a year by over 10,000 troops, it was a strategic military achievement during WWII.

Driving the segment between Fairbanks and Delta Junction offers a glimpse into the untamed nature of Alaska. This stretch of road played a critical role in the war effort. From Fairbanks, over 7,000 aircraft were transferred to Russian pilots, who flew them across Siberia to the Eastern Front. These planes were instrumental in helping the Soviets hold off the German Army until the Allied forces launched the D-Day invasion in 1944.

Today, the ALCAN Road stands as a testament to human determination and ingenuity, cutting through the pristine wilderness. Driving this route, the Trans-Alaska Pipeline stretches across the landscape like a silver ribbon, its reflective surface shimmering in the crisp morning air. The scene is often serene, with misty mornings punctuated by occasional patches of sunlight breaking through the clouds.

The journey is a reminder of Alaska’s raw and unspoiled beauty. Human presence is sparse, with only a handful of outposts and few cars sharing the road. The absence of structures amplifies the vivid greens of the grass and trees, creating a picture of pure wilderness.

Watch a Video on the ALCAN Highway.

Travel Route: Chitina – McCarthy – Kennecott Glacier – Kennecott Copper Mill

A Flight to McCarthy: A Bird’s Eye View of the Wrangell-Saint Elias

McCarthy, located at the heart of Wrangell-Saint Elias, the largest national park in the United States, is accessible only by air or a challenging 60-mile road from Chitina. Initially, I planned to drive the road, but my RV rental company refused, citing its poor conditions. Undeterred, I explored alternatives and discovered a small outfitter offering 30-minute flights to McCarthy. The flights were weather-dependent, so I called the day before, and luck was on my side—a seat was available.

As I settled into the small aircraft, I couldn’t help but feel a thrill of excitement. It had been years since I’d flown in such a plane, and the anticipation was palpable. As the aircraft climbed higher, I discovered the beauty of aerial photography for the first time. The world below transformed into a canvas of abstract shapes and vivid colors, resembling a living work of art. The bird’s-eye view of the rugged Alaskan terrain, glaciers, and endless wilderness was nothing short of breathtaking. I felt privileged to witness the grandeur of the Wrangell-Saint Elias from such a unique perspective.

How Glaciers Form and Shape the Landscape

While I knew glaciers were immense, dynamic forces of nature, I had little understanding of how they formed. In mountain regions, winter snow often exceeds the summer’s melting capacity. As a result, layers of snow from previous years accumulate and compress into solid ice over time, forming a glacier. These frozen rivers of ice slowly descend under their own weight, shaping the valleys they occupy.

As glaciers advance, they carry with them a mixture of rocks and debris known as till. When the glacier retreats or melts, it leaves behind this till, forming long ridges called moraines. These moraines are visible reminders of a glacier’s path, tracing the contours of the landscape it has shaped over millennia. Witnessing these formations deepened my appreciation for the geological forces that sculpt the natural world.

Discovering the History and Impact of the Kennecott Copper Mill in Alaska

The Kennecott Copper Mill stands as a remarkable example of discovery, ingenuity, and the entrepreneurial spirit that shaped America. In 1898, two prospectors, Bingham and McCarty, stumbled upon a high-grade copper ore vein in an unremarkable mining camp. Their discovery sparked the development of the Kennecott Copper Corporation, a massive undertaking requiring significant investment and engineering innovation.

By its first year of operation, the Kennecott mill produced over $30 million worth of copper, quickly establishing itself as one of the most important copper processing centers in the United States. The mill played a critical role in fueling the industrial expansion of the early 20th century.

Today, the 14-story Kennecott mill building, where copper ores were processed, stands as a sentinel of history. Its weathered structures exude an air of decay while telling a compelling story of ambition and perseverance. Exploring these ruins evokes a profound sense of nostalgia for America’s westward expansion—a period defined by exploration, discovery, and technological innovation.

Walking through the remnants of the Kennecott Copper Mill is a journey into a forgotten era. The artifacts and structures serve as a testament to the ingenuity and tenacity of those who built it. The mill is a striking reminder of the ambition that propelled America’s rise during the Industrial Age.

Watch a glimpse of Kennecott Copper Mill.

Reflections

The journey from Chitina to McCarthy, with Kennecott Glacier and the historic Copper Mill, showcases Alaska’s enduring spirit. From breathtaking aerial views to awe-inspiring glaciers and the echoes of Kennecott’s industry, this route embodies the risk-taking spirit, entrepreneurial boldness, and beauty of America’s last frontier.

The values of pioneering, ingenuity, and free enterprise form the cornerstone of the American spirit—often taken for granted domestically but admired, either openly or quietly, around the world. For contrast, consider the case of Bolivia’s failed lithium mining industry, which highlights the stark differences in approach and outcome.

Learn more about the Bolivian case here.

Travel Route: Chitina – Valdez – Columbia Glacier

The Aftermath of the Exxon Valdez Oil Spill: Environmental Recovery in Prince William Sound

In 1989, the world watched in horror as the Exxon Valdez tanker struck a reef in Alaska’s Prince William Sound, spilling millions of gallons of crude oil into the pristine environment. I vividly remember the devastating news reports and the heart-wrenching images of oil-slicked wildlife and damaged ecosystems. It left an indelible mark on my mind and a desire to one day visit the Sound to witness its recovery firsthand.

Now, more than three decades later, the Exxon Valdez oil spill is remembered as a tragic chapter in environmental history. However, time and relentless restoration efforts have greatly reduced its impact. Wildlife is slowly returning in greater numbers, and many habitats have been restored or are undergoing recovery. While scars remain, the resilience of nature and the dedication to healing these waters are inspiring reminders of the balance we must strive to maintain.

Where Has All the Oil Money Gone? Celebrating 40 Years of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System

As the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System (TAPS) marks its 40th anniversary, it prompts a question many Alaskans are asking: where has all the oil money gone?

TAPS, an engineering marvel spanning 800 miles, was built in 1977 to transport crude oil from the Prudhoe Bay oil fields to the Port of Valdez. The pipeline crosses three mountain ranges and hundreds of rivers, including the mighty Yukon, and operates 24/7, 365 days a year. It is one of the most technologically advanced pipelines in the world, showcasing human ingenuity amidst Alaska’s challenging terrain.

Over the years, Alaska has collected an astounding $141 billion in petroleum taxes. The short answer to where that money has gone is visible all around: infrastructure. Roads, bridges, homes, public buildings, and schools owe their existence to this revenue. Even the growth of Alaska’s population has been shaped by the economic opportunities created by oil. Without this windfall, the modern Alaska we see today would be a very different place.

Watch a Documentary on TAPS.

A Voyage to the Columbia Glacier: Witnessing the Impacts of Global Warming

The Lu-Lu Belle, a sightseeing boat, carried twenty-five passengers and three crew members into the frigid waters surrounding the Columbia Glacier. Captain Fred, who has been operating these tours since 1979, shared a sobering narrative about the glacier’s retreat. In 1979, the Columbia Glacier’s edge extended 12.5 miles further into the ocean, and its height above the water’s surface was 100 feet. Today, the glacier stands just 30 feet high, a stark reminder of the effects of global warming.

As the boat’s engine sputtered to a stop near the glacier, the silence was punctuated only by the crashing of ice into the water—a sound both beautiful and haunting. The vibrant colors of the ice formations mesmerized me. Though the scenery was constant, each fragment of ice felt like a unique snapshot of nature’s artistry.

Experience the Columbia Glacier Voyage.

The Beauty and Science of the Blue Light in Glacial Ice

One of the most captivating sights in nature is the deep, ethereal blue found in glacial ice. This striking color results from the refraction of sunlight as it passes through the dense layers of ice.

Here’s how it works: Sunlight contains various energy wavelengths corresponding to different colors. Red and yellow wavelengths have less energy and are quickly absorbed by the ice. Blue light, however, has higher energy, allowing it to penetrate deeper and escape absorption. This phenomenon creates a luminous blue hue that seems to glow from within the glacier, making it both a scientific and breathtaking natural wonder.

Learn More About Glacial Ice Colors.

Travel Route: Valdez – Anchorage – Seward

“Alaska” by James Michener

James Michener’s Alaska is a sweeping narrative that captures this majestic state’s history, culture, and rugged spirit. Listening to this book during my road trip deepened my understanding of Alaska and introduced me to its unique and memorable characters.

Michener’s storytelling vividly depicts Alaska’s untamed landscapes and the resilient people who call it home. It’s a captivating tale that left an enduring impression, and I highly recommend it to anyone seeking a deeper connection to the Last Frontier.

Watch a video on Michener’s Alaska.

The Power of Tides: Stand-Up Paddleboarding in Chickaloon Bay

My last full day in Alaska started with a hiccup: the RV’s battery was dead. After a deep breath and some problem-solving, I contacted the rental company. Five hours later, with a new battery installed, I was back on the road, driving from Anchorage to Seward.

During the wait, I had the chance to observe Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP) in Chickaloon Bay. The bay’s unique tidal phenomenon creates long, slow waves stretching over a mile, attracting surfers who eagerly anticipate the waves that come only twice a day.

This tidal rhythm is driven by the moon’s gravitational pull. Coastal areas experience two high tides daily due to the moon’s orbit around the Earth. As the moon passes overhead, its gravitational force pulls the water upward, creating a high tide. When the moon is on the opposite side of the Earth, centrifugal force from the planet’s rotation causes a second high tide. This balance of forces gives rise to the rhythmic beauty of the tides—and to the rare waves of Chickaloon Bay.

Lessons from My First RV Road Trip in Alaska

Driving an RV for the first time felt daunting, but it turned out to be a rewarding experience. Taking it slow and planning routes carefully helped me avoid unnecessary stress.

That said, my 2005 rental RV had its share of issues—frequent generator, refrigerator, and battery problems reminded me of its age.

Tip for Future RV Travelers: Rent a newer, well-maintained RV to spend more time exploring Alaska’s stunning landscapes and less time dealing with mechanical headaches.

Final Reflections

The journey from Chitina to Valdez and the Columbia Glacier reveals Alaska’s contrasts—the scars of the Exxon Valdez spill, nature’s resilience, and the fragile beauty of glaciers. It’s a powerful reflection on humanity’s impact and responsibility in preserving the natural world.

As civilization reappeared near Anchorage, I reflected on the experience as a whole—how it was less about the destination and more about the people, lessons, and profound moments that shaped the journey. Alaska’s spirit lingers long after the road ends, a reminder to embrace life’s adventures fully.

June 2017

My Book Recommendations for Alaska

For those inspired to explore Alaska through literature, here are some of my favorite reads that capture the spirit of the state:

Alaska: A Novel by James A. Michener

Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer

Coming into the Country by John McPhee

The Call of the Wild by Jack London

To Build a Fire by Jack London

The Man with the Gash by Jack London

The White Silence by Jack London