France Travel Adventures

France Travel Adventures: 2 Gems You Can’t Miss

Exploring a Friend’s Homeland

Traveling with a close friend to their homeland transforms an ordinary vacation into an extraordinary journey. With a local as your companion, you gain access to a world most tourists never see—those beloved cafes tucked away on quiet streets, the best secret beaches, and neighborhood spots that don’t appear on TripAdvisor. It’s like having your own personal tour guide, someone who genuinely wants you to fall in love with their country. That’s exactly what happened when we traveled through France with our dear friends Elaine and Bernard—and we couldn’t have been more grateful.

Language barriers? Not an issue. Bernard became our fluent, ever-patient translator, smoothing every interaction. From navigating menus to decoding local etiquette, his presence turned potential confusion into effortless connection. Thanks to him, we sampled dishes we wouldn’t have dared order on our own, each bite a new delight.

Comfort and convenience were other perks. Staying with friends or family didn’t just save us money—it added a layer of warmth and intimacy no hotel could match. Bernard guided us through train stations, city streets, and countryside routes, ensuring we never wasted time getting lost or landed on the wrong bus. And when it came to safety, we knew we were in good hands—he knew which areas to explore and which to avoid, keeping the adventure light-hearted and stress-free.

But the true magic was in the personal connections. We shared meals, stories, and laughter with Bernard’s family in Marseille, even learning a few tricks in the kitchen. It wasn’t just a vacation—it was an immersion, a living experience of culture, kinship, and discovery. Our bond deepened, and the memories we made became part of our shared history.

Morgiou: Where Time Stands Still

Tucked along the rugged coastline near Marseille, Morgiou feels like a forgotten cove preserved in a slower century. Arriving there is like slipping into a tranquil dream—one shaped by steep limestone cliffs, the scent of salt in the air, and the soft lapping of waves against timeworn boats.

This tiny fishing village, cradled between the rock and the sea, exudes a quiet charm. At its heart lies a natural harbor where colorful wooden boats drift gently on crystalline waters. The surrounding cliffs, sun-bleached and wind-sculpted, shield the cove like ancient guardians, giving the place an intimacy that invites reflection and calm.

In Morgiou, the world slows down. There are no grand attractions—just the rhythm of nature, the clink of nets, and the occasional laughter echoing from a terrace. It’s a place to savor the simple things: the taste of fresh seafood, a dip in the turquoise sea, the warmth of stone beneath your feet. For a brief moment, you’re not just visiting—you’re inhabiting a quieter way of life.

➤ Watch a short glimpse of Morgiou here.

The Calanques National Park: Nature’s Majestic Playground

Stretching between Marseille and Cassis, the Calanques National Park is a masterpiece of natural architecture—where towering limestone cliffs plunge into crystalline coves and the sea glows in shades of turquoise and cobalt. This protected coastal wonderland invites both awe and adventure.

From Morgiou, one of the park’s hidden gateways, we set out on a couple of trails that wound through pine-scented hills and opened onto jaw-dropping vistas. Each bend revealed something new: sweeping views of the Mediterranean, sheer rock faces carved by wind and time, and hidden inlets that shimmered like gems beneath the sun.

Hiking in the Calanques isn’t just about the physical journey—it’s a sensory experience. The crunch of gravel underfoot, the distant cries of gulls, the sun on your shoulders—all heighten your awareness of nature’s raw beauty. It’s a place where scale humbles you, silence restores you, and the landscape lingers in your memory long after you’ve left.

Le Corbusier’s Masterpiece: Exploring the Unité d’Habitation in Marseille

Standing at the base of the Unité d’Habitation in Marseille, I felt the weight of vision and innovation towering above me. More than just concrete and angles, this was Le Corbusier’s radical idea made real—a vertical village, a “machine for living,” where function and form coalesce into something deeply human.

As I wandered through its complex interior—wide corridors, elevated walkways, and communal nooks—I noticed how thoughtfully the space was crafted. Long horizontal windows bathed the interiors in natural light, creating a seamless dialogue between inside and out. The rooftop, crowned with gardens and communal areas, offered a quiet refuge from the noise of the city below—an urban sanctuary in the sky.

What struck me most was how ahead of its time this building felt. Le Corbusier envisioned a self-contained community, where living, shopping, gathering, and even exercising could happen under one roof. His concept of vertical living wasn’t just about stacking homes—it was about reimagining how people interact, share space, and move through their daily lives.

Today, we see echoes of this model around the world, from mixed-use high-rises in Asia to sustainable co-living spaces in Europe and North America. But here, in Marseille, it still feels revolutionary. Visiting the Unité d’Habitation wasn’t just an architectural detour—it was a step inside a living blueprint of the future imagined more than seventy years ago.

➤ Take a visual journey through Le Corbusier’s groundbreaking Unité d’Habitation in Marseille, where innovative design meets functional living.

From Canvas to Concrete: Mondrian, Agam, and the Living Geometry of Le Corbusier

What struck me most about the Unité d’Habitation was its unexpected but powerful visual kinship with the geometric minimalism of Piet Mondrian and the multidimensional optical art of Yaacov Agam.

On one hand, the building echoes Mondrian’s abstract compositions—his iconic grids, primary colors, and sense of structural harmony. Le Corbusier’s façade, with its rhythm of bold lines and color blocks, feels like a three-dimensional rendering of a De Stijl canvas, translated from paint to concrete. The architectural order, balance, and purity of form mirror the same modernist pursuit of clarity and abstraction.

On the other hand, the colorful interplay across the building’s façade calls to mind Agam’s later kinetic art. There’s a dynamic quality to the structure—colors shift subtly as you move, creating a kind of optical dance. Like Agam’s pieces, which change with the viewer’s perspective, the Unité d’Habitation offers not just a fixed image, but an evolving experience.

This layered visual dialogue—between Mondrian’s influence before and Agam’s resonance after—adds depth and dimension to the building’s architectural expression. It becomes not just a “machine for living,” but a living conversation between time, space, and vision.

As Le Corbusier once said, “Space, light, and order. Those are the things that men need just as much as they need bread or a place to sleep.” In this structure, he gave them all—and added a touch of poetry, too.

➤ Art and Travel Reflections: For insights on the intersection of travel and art, see my essay, Florence the Magnificent.

Ousmane Sow’s “Little Bighorn” in an Alpine Fortress

On our drive through the French Alps, a detour to Mont-Dauphin unveiled a surprising spectacle: Ousmane Sow’s Little Bighorn. This monumental series, featuring life-sized warriors and horses, recreates the iconic 1876 battle with raw intensity. Sow’s unique technique, blending concrete, straw, and jute, lends his figures a powerful presence. Yet, the juxtaposition of this American epic in a French military barracks is jarring.

Sow, a Senegalese sculptor based in France, had a profound understanding of the human form. His work, often depicting men in action, transcends cultural boundaries. While Little Bighorn is a striking piece, its placement raises questions about context and artistic intent.

➤ For a closer look at Sow’s dramatic recreation, watch this brief video tour of “Little Bighorn” at Mont-Dauphin.

La Salle-les-Alpes: A Year-Round Alpine Paradise

Tucked into a serene valley in the French Alps, La Salle-les-Alpes offers a timeless blend of natural beauty, outdoor adventure, and Alpine charm. In winter, its snow-blanketed slopes draw skiers and snowboarders from around the world, while summer transforms the landscape into a playground of hiking trails, mountain biking routes, and high-altitude serenity.

Despite its popularity, the village retains its quiet soul—preserving centuries-old chalets, stone chapels, and a deep-rooted mountain culture. Surrounded by wildflower meadows, dense pine forests, and jagged peaks that catch the changing light, La Salle-les-Alpes feels both grounded in tradition and alive with seasonal rhythm. Whether you’re chasing powder or peace, it offers a retreat that renews with every visit.

➤ For a glimpse into the serene beauty and vibrant culture of La Salle-les-Alpes, watch this short video.

 

Saint-Jean-Baptiste Church: A Quiet Center of Village Life

At the heart of La Salle-les-Alpes stands the village church, Saint-Jean-Baptiste—a centuries-old structure built with sturdy Alpine stone to weather the region’s fierce winters. More than just a place of worship, the church is a cornerstone of community life, hosting everything from religious ceremonies to seasonal festivals that knit together the cultural fabric of the village.

Step inside, and you’re greeted by an atmosphere of quiet reverence and rustic beauty. Traditional Alpine religious art decorates the interior—ornate altars, faded frescoes, and statues of beloved saints, each echoing a long history of devotion and craft. It was only after I reviewed the photos I’d taken inside that I noticed the ceiling: a soft, elegant shade of light purple. It added an unexpected touch of warmth to the stone walls, a subtle grace I hadn’t seen at first glance—one more hidden gem in this village full of them.

Serre Chevalier: From Rural Villages to Ski Resort Powerhouse

Serre Chevalier has evolved from a cluster of small, rural mountain villages into one of the largest and most popular ski resorts in the French Alps. Initially focused on agriculture and local trade, the local villages began to showcase their potential for winter sports in the early 20th century.

The transformation of Serre Chevalier accelerated after World War II, particularly during the late 1940s and early 1950s, driven by the post-war boom in winter sports across Europe. The area’s natural geography made it an ideal candidate for ski tourism.
➤ For a scenic overview of Serre Chevalier’s alpine charm and resort life, watch this short video.

Major investments in the 1960s and 1970s, including ski lifts and modern facilities, marked the shift from individual villages to an integrated ski resort. The 1980s and 1990s saw further expansion and modernization, with a comprehensive network of lifts and slopes connecting the villages. Snowmaking technology ensured consistent winter conditions and developed additional accommodations, restaurants, and entertainment facilities.

Today, Serre Chevalier boasts over 250 kilometers of ski slopes catering to all levels of skiers and snowboarders. It is renowned for its extensive ski terrain, vibrant après-ski scene, thermal baths, and year-round outdoor activities. The resort blends modern amenities with the charm of traditional alpine villages, making it a unique destination in the French Alps.

Botanical Marvels at Col du Lautaret’s Alpine Garden

Perched at 2,058 meters (6,752 feet), the Col du Lautaret is more than just a mountain pass—it’s a gateway to both natural beauty and botanical wonder. Nestled between the northern and southern French Alps, this historic route has served as a vital artery since Roman times, connecting regions, cultures, and trade. Today, it’s just as likely to be traversed by cyclists and motorcyclists chasing breathtaking views as by historians retracing ancient paths.

But beyond its panoramic vistas and reputation as a dramatic segment of the Tour de France, the Col hides a quieter marvel: the Lautaret Alpine Garden. One of the highest botanical gardens in Europe, this living museum bursts with a kaleidoscope of alpine plants from around the world—delicate blooms clinging to rocky slopes, mosses thriving in icy crevices, and hardy flora that defy altitude and snow.

Even in summer, snow lingers on the surrounding peaks, heightening the surreal beauty of this high-altitude Eden. The harshness of the climate makes the garden’s vibrancy all the more remarkable—a celebration of life’s resilience in the face of elemental extremes.

Briançon: France’s Highest City with a Storied Military Past

Perched high in the French Alps near the Italian border, Briançon is a city steeped in history and surrounded by breathtaking mountain views. Originally founded as Brigantium by the Romans in the 1st century BC, this alpine settlement evolved over centuries into a key trading post and military outpost along the historic Route des Escartons, which once connected France and Italy through the mountains.

Briançon’s strategic importance reached its peak in the 17th century when King Louis XIV’s famed military engineer, Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, transformed the town into a fortified bastion. His imposing network of walls, bastions, and forts still dominates the landscape, earning recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site and standing as a remarkable example of military architecture adapted to rugged terrain.

Throughout the War of the Austrian Succession and the Napoleonic Wars, Briançon served as a critical defensive stronghold. Its fortifications were tested but held firm—shaped and reshaped in the 18th century to meet the changing demands of warfare.

Today, Briançon remains the highest city in France, sitting at over 1,300 meters (4,300 feet). Yet its altitude is not its only draw. Visitors come for the ski slopes and alpine air, but stay for the charm of its old streets, sun-drenched ramparts, and the enduring echoes of history embedded in stone. In Briançon, the past and present meet with grace—making it not just a destination, but a journey through time.

Living Close to Nature: Our Experience in the French Alps

Nestled deep in the heart of the French Alps, the village of Nebache unfolds like a quiet watercolor—steep peaks rising behind rooftops, trails weaving through wildflower meadows and pine-scented forests. It’s the kind of place that makes you pause and wonder: What would it be like to live here, surrounded by such beauty every day?

From our time there, it was easy to imagine the rhythms of daily life shaped by the land—morning hikes with crisp air in your lungs, afternoons of mountain biking through sun-dappled trails, evenings lit by the glow of starlight and silence. The proximity to nature feels like a daily invitation to reconnect—with the land, with others, and with yourself.

Nebache seems to offer more than just a scenic escape. It hints at a deeper kind of wealth: wildlife sightings that feel like gifts, seasonal rituals that root you to place, and a sense of community that grows not from convenience but from shared presence. Festivals, markets, and small-town kindness reinforce what so many urban lives lack—genuine connection.

And yet, amid all this tranquility, a question lingers: Does living in a place like this lead to greater happiness?
Ralph Waldo Emerson once wrote, “Wherever you go, there you are.” His words remind us that even the most stunning surroundings can’t outrun inner restlessness. Beauty may soothe, but it doesn’t erase. Peace may be offered, but it must also be accepted.

Still, the French Alps left an imprint on us. The experience of being close to nature—really close—revealed a quiet kind of joy. Not dramatic or escapist, but grounded in the slow unfolding of days filled with light, silence, and space to simply be.

July 2024