Grand Canyon

Pioneering the Grand Canyon: The Triumphs and Tragedies of Peter Berry

It was 1895, and Peter Berry was riding his dark brown mule up a winding, narrow trail that connected the Last Chance Mine at the bottom of the canyon to Grandview, a house and operational center that Pete had built on the south rim of the Grand Canyon. The sun was shining through the clouds, lighting up the canyon’s north rim in a dazzling array of purple and orange shades that stretched out to the horizon and ended at the deep blue Colorado River. Pete couldn’t help but be awestruck by the beauty of the scenery, never tiring of the view.

Pete and his partners, Ralph and Niles Cameron, had been coming to the Grand Canyon since 1888 to search for valuable minerals. These long trips from Flagstaff often lasted for weeks or even months, but it all paid off in 1890 when they discovered a rich vein of copper on Horseshoe Mesa. They quickly registered their claim and began excavation, building the finest trail in the Grand Canyon to connect the mine to Grandview.

Their hard work had paid off, as the copper ore from their mine was of exceptionally high quality, with a purity of 15-30%. In fact, two years ago, they had even won the top prize at the World’s Fair in Chicago for the purity of their copper ore, putting their mine and the Grand Canyon on the map.

Pete stood with his left hand on the harness and his right hand tightly gripping the whip. Delilah, his stubborn mule, was causing trouble again, wiggling her head and shifting the harness to the side. She was also prone to stopping for a snack, earning her the nickname “the unruly” among the group. Pete was in charge of a caravan of ten mules, including old Joe bringing up the rear. These mules, known for their strength and reliability, were all from Tennessee. Some were black, others were dark brown, and there was even one white mule with dark spots. Each mule was carrying two large sacks of copper ore, weighing 200 pounds, on either side of their body.

Tomorrow, they would be making the journey back down the steep trail, this time carrying food and other supplies. The caravan traveled up and down the canyon every day. Pete was bothered since the cost of transportation to the processing center in El Paso, Texas, was eating into their profits. He knew the Santa Fe Railroad company was planning to raise prices again and worried it could put them out of business. The good ore was running out, and Pete knew he needed to come up with a plan and discuss it with Ralph and Niles.

As the fiery sun hung high in the sky, its light cast a striking array of pink and purple clouds over the canyon. The layers of gray and red rock above the turquoise river added to the rugged beauty of the scene.

Pete surveyed the landscape. He was a tall, lean man with a strong, erect posture and sharp, intense features, including a bushy imperial mustache. But it was his eyes that really stood out – small and piercing, they radiated a sense of willpower.

At 37 years old, Pete had been living full-time at Grandview for five years, and he looked every bit the part of a pioneer in his dark clothes, high leather boots, gloves, and wide-brim leather hat.

“If only my business success could match my marriage situation, that would be great. But it’s not like that at all. It’s just one drama after another, filled with heartbreak and sorrow. It’s the kind of material that could make for a good novella, but it’s not a novella. It’s my life. And when was the last time I even read a novella or any other book, anyway?” Pete’s thoughts drifted as Delilah steadily made her way up the trail.

“I know I wasn’t the most present or the best husband, but to do what she did? I just don’t know. Yeah, I was away from Flagstaff a lot, prospecting in the canyon and all that, but having an affair while I was working my ass off and with that low-life Frankforter, who used to work for me? I just don’t know.

It was never love between us. I just did my duty when my brother John was killed at his saloon in Flagstaff. He was a brave little guy; I miss him. Why he had to intervene in that brawl, I don’t know. And to be killed by a stray bullet… I’m not even sure it was a stray. He and Mary had three kids.

I left everything in Colorado, came over, took over his saloon, kids, and wife. No, it wasn’t love, but she had her talents, no doubt about that. At least I had the chance to shoot and wound Frankforter before they took off.”

Pete’s thoughts tumbled out in long, unpunctuated sentences, the way the mind constructs thoughts with no clear beginning or end.

“A good story,” Pete mused to himself, “maybe the best in the Wild West, but to hell with all that. Now she’s gone with the kids, and I’m here, in this beautiful canyon. Hooray!” He let out a high-pitched shriek that Delilah took as a signal to speed up, but it was really just a release of emotion.

“I need to think ahead,” Pete continued to ponder. “I’ve got these two crude lodging rooms that I sometimes rent out to the few brave visitors who come here on the 12-hour stagecoach ride from Flagstaff. They always look so rattled and exhausted when they step off the carriage and always ask for food and gear that I don’t have to offer. I could actually make a killing if I set things up right. Maybe I should even build a lodge. It would be the first one at the Grand Canyon, with a dining hall and a gift shop. There aren’t many visitors right now, but if I build it, they’ll come.”

Now, almost 130 years later, visitors to the Grand Canyon are still coming in droves, with estimates ranging from 4 to 6 million people per year. In 1897, Pete and his new wife, Martha, opened the Grandview Hotel, which is credited with starting tourism at the Grand Canyon. Pete also began offering mule tours down the Grandview trail, and for a time, Grandview was the most popular tourist destination at the Grand Canyon, advertised as the “only first-class hotel at the Grand Canyon.”

However, things changed in 1901 when the Santa Fe Railroad reached Grand Canyon Village, located just 11 miles west of Grandview. Many tourists chose to take the smoother train ride rather than the bumpy stagecoach journey to Grandview. Today, little remains of Pete’s lodge on the rim, but if you visit the Grand Canyon and drive east along the south rim, be sure to stop at the Grandview observation point – it truly is grand!

If you’re wondering about the accuracy of Peter Berry’s story, you can rest assured that it is based on factual information that is readily available online. The only fictional part of the story is the description of Delilah, the mule I rode on a recent descent into the Grand Canyon.

2020: Exploring the Grand Canyon: Tips and Tricks for a Memorable Hike

The Grand Canyon is a place where no picture can fully capture its size. Even while you’re standing at the top staring down, you can’t discern how far away the bottom is. You can view the canyon from the south or north rims; both are breathtaking.

The north rim’s elevation is 1000 ft (305 m) higher, but the south rim is the more popular side. When viewing the canyon from the south, the sun will be at your back, making it favorable for photography.

Four trails lead down to the river from the south rim and one from the north rim. You can choose how far down to go before making the turn; no permits are required. However, a permit is required if you wish to go all the way down and camp overnight before proceeding back. You can reserve it on the National Parks website.

Venturing down into the canyon to gaze up at the massive rock walls or feel the crisp Colorado River is not a simple endeavor. Still, anyone in decent physical condition can experience at least a few miles of the spectacular trails. If you have the entire trip on your bucket list or just feel up to the challenge, I suggest going down on the South Kaibab Trail, staying at Phantom Ranch for a couple of nights, and climbing back up on the Bright Angel Trail.

South Kaibab Trail Descent – This is the fastest route to the river, descending 4,780 feet (1,457 m) in 7 miles. It is steep, and no water is available anywhere on the trail until the canyon’s bottom. This trail gives the best views of the Grand Canyon – the big vistas and panoramic views are like no other, and the sun being at your back is perfect for photography. 

Phantom Ranch – Overnight options at the canyon floor are limited to the Bright Angel Campground and the historic Phantom Ranch. Booking a sleeping spot at one of the picturesque stone cabins needs planning. A reservation can be obtained via lottery at Xanterra’s website 12 months in advance.

I suggest a two-night stay, as you will arrive late in the afternoon, and the body could enjoy a good day’s rest before the climb back. The booking package includes meals. They serve great steak or vegan chili for dinner.

You could opt to hike towards the north rim on your rest day, enjoy a lazy beach stay, and take a dip in the ice-cold river. Also, you could take it easy, rest, and make watercolor drawings. 

Bright Angel Trail Ascent – This trail ascends 4,380 feet (1,335 m) in 10 miles. Compared to the South Kaibab route, Bright Angel offers a more gradual climb, more shade, and, most importantly, several points with fresh drinking water. The trail is made of endless switchbacks, giving epic views that are framed by massive cliffs. The last couple of miles are very steep. This section has quite a bit of shade that provides relief from the sun in warmer months but can generate additional difficulty in the winter due to lingering ice.

You can do the route on top of a mule; see this short video. For reservations, check Xanterra’s website. And then, the admired few can run the entire course in a single day, like the ones in this short video. 

Final words of advice. Pack light and wear good shoes. Be prepared for the canyon’s temperature differences between the top and bottom. And most important, condition your body for the hike. There is no phone service nor Uber rides from the trail. Listen to your body, as there is a fine line between a worthwhile endeavor and a miserable trip.

2013: Exploring the Grand Canyon: 13 Surprising Facts

1. NO ONE IS CERTAIN OF THE GRAND CANYON’S AGE.

For a long time, it was thought that the Colorado River began creating the canyon six million years ago. According to recent mineral tests conducted inside the canyon, this process may have started 70 million years ago.

Why is it so difficult to answer a question that seems so simple? The Colorado River may not have completely carved out the Grand Canyon in one go. The canyon may have evolved throughout time in sections, with some parts dating back as far as 70 million years. Still, the connected canyon we see today may have only recently emerged—in the last 6 million years.

2. A HUGE MYSTERY IS LOCATED THERE!

The Great Unconformity is a geological phenomenon that can be seen in the Grand Canyon. This alludes to the fact that rock layers dating back 250 million years sit exactly next to those dating back 1.2 billion years. The hundreds of millions of years’ worth of missing layers are unknown.

3. ITS SHAPE IS STILL CHANGING!

The canyon is traversed by the Colorado River, which has shaped it through time along with wind and rain. Even though it changes too slowly for us to notice, it is changing.

4. THE GRAND CANYON MEASURES 277 MILES LONG, 18 MILES WIDE, AND IS ONE MILE DEEP.

For the purpose of comparison, the Park’s enormous size – 1,904 square miles – is equivalent to one-fourth of Israel’s area.

5. THE GRAND CANYON IS NOT THE DEEPEST CANYON IN THE WORLD

The famous canyon in Arizona may be the largest in the world, but it is not the deepest. It’s quite difficult to come to an agreement on the best method for gauging gorge depth. However, depending on who you ask, either Nepal’s Kali Gandaki Gorge or Peru’s almost 11,000-foot-deep Cotahuasi Canyon holds the title. On the other hand, the Grand Canyon is only one mile deep (5280 feet).

6. I.T.’S NOT EVEN THE DEEPEST CANYON IN THE UNITED STATES.

The Snake River carved the Hells Canyon near the border of Oregon, and Idaho descends half a mile lower than the Grand Canyon, denying the Grand Canyon the title of domestic champion.

7. THE SOUTH RIM IS LOWER THAN THE NORTH RIM.

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon is 1000 feet (305 m) higher than the South Rim on average, standing at 8,000 feet (2,438 meters).

8. IT TAKES ABOUT 215 MILES TO GET FROM THE NORTH RIM VISITOR CENTER TO THE SOUTH RIM VISITOR CENTER.

It can be more complicated than you think to visit both the North Rim and the South Rim on the same day. Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim and the Lodge on the North Rim are just over 10 miles apart as the crow flies. However, it takes roughly 5 hours or 215 miles (346 km) to drive between them through the Park, over the Colorado River, and around the canyon.

9. THE GRAND CANYON’S TOP AND BOTTOM TEMPERATURES DIFFER GREATLY.

Temperature changes of more than 25 degrees Fahrenheit may be encountered during a hike from the North Rim’s top, located around 8000 feet above sea level, to the canyon’s bottom, one mile below. Winter lows at the top can drop to 0oF, and summer highs in the gorge’s depths can approach 100oF.

10. THE GRAND CANYON HAS SOME OF THE UNITED STATES CLEANEST AIR.
11. THE COLORADO RIVER RUNS THROUGH THE CANYON TO THE WEST

The Colorado River has an average width and depth of roughly 300 feet and moves at a speed of four miles per hour.

12. FOSSILS ARE EVERYWHERE IN THE CANYON.

It is home to fossils of ancient marine animals that date back 1.2 billion years. However, none of them are from dinosaurs, as the canyon layers were formed long before dinosaurs walked the Earth.

13. THE CANYON IS BRIMMING WITH SECRET CAVES.

Water-soluble rocks, such as the Redwall Limestone in the Grand Canyon, can be progressively dissolved by water, forming caverns of varying sizes. There are thought to be 1,000 caves hidden within the Grand Canyon; only 335 have been documented. Even fewer have been cataloged or mapped. The Cave of the Domes on Horseshoe Mesa is the only cave currently open to the public.

Grand Canyon: A History of Exploration, Culture, and Spirituality

1. THE GRAND CANYON HAS FOUND HUMAN ARTIFACTS AS OLD AS 12,000 YEARS.

The earliest artifacts discovered in the Grand Canyon date to the Paleo-Indian era and are almost 12,000 years old. In the canyon walls, hundreds of split-twig sculptures in the forms of deer and bighorn sheep have been found. These were reportedly employed in religious ceremonies by primitive hunters, according to anthropologists.

2. THE GRAND CANYON IS SEEN BY THE HOPI TRIBE AS A GATEWAY TO THE AFTERLIFE

The Grand Canyon, also known as Öngtupqa in the Hopi language, is of profound spiritual value to the Native American tribe that has long lived in the area. A Hopi is said to get to the afterlife by way of the sipapuni, or “place of emergence,” which is a dome-shaped collection of mineral deposits inside the canyon, upstream from the Colorado River’s confluence with the Little Colorado River.

3. IN 1540, THE FIRST EUROPEANS WITNESSED THE GRAND CANYON.

The first Europeans to visit the Grand Canyon were soldiers from Francisco Vásquez de Coronado’s Spanish expedition in the late summer of 1540. After a six-month trek, Coronado’s army reached the Hopi mesas, east of the Grand Canyon. From there, Garcia Lopez de Cardenas led a small group of men to locate a rumored “big river,” assisted by Hopi Indians. They arrived at the Grand Canyon’s south rim after 20 days, emerging from the trees to stand on the rim’s edge of the enormous crater.

Three soldiers descended to investigate the canyon’s interior. The journey wasn’t too long. Perhaps as a result of the Hopi purposefully keeping the tourists away from their prized Colorado River, the troops were so thirsty that they passed out.

4. FOLLOWING EUROPEAN VISITORS DELAYED RETURNING TO THE GRAND CANYON

The Spanish had no pressing reason to return after their initial exploration turned up no significant regional treasures. The canyon was discovered by Spanish priests Francisco Atanasio Dominguez and Silvestre Vélez de Escalante in 1776 as they looked for a way from Santa Fe to their Catholic mission in Monterey, California. This was the second time that Europeans had visited the area. In the same year, Francisco Garcés, another Spanish missionary, visited the canyon while making a largely futile attempt to win over the native Havasupai to Christianity.

5. EUROPEAN DESCENT EXPLORERS DIDN’T REACH THE GRAND CANYON’S BOTTOM UNTIL 1869.

John Wesley Powell led nine men on a 1,000-mile mission down the Colorado River and its tributaries and through the Grand Canyon in 1869, seven years after he had lost his right arm in the Battle of Shiloh during the American Civil War. The men included Powell’s brother, a printer for the Rocky Mountain News, and an 18-year-old mule driver and bullwhacker. This trip would only have six team members finish it, but Powell would return in 1871 with congressional support and an 11-person crew that included scientists.

The earliest maps of the Colorado River were created during that second journey. John Wesley Powell chronicled his travels to the Colorado River in graphic detail. He became an advocate for the prudent use of natural resources due to his first-hand encounters, especially considering the Southwest’s scarce water supply.

6. TO PROTECT THE GRAND CANYON, TEDDY ROOSEVELT USED A LOOPHOLE

Prior to deciding that “the marvel should be conserved,” Roosevelt just needed one trip to the Grand Canyon in 1903. Unfortunately, establishing a national park without congressional permission was beyond his power. Roosevelt took the long way around in order to avoid Congress, which he anticipated would be uncooperative. President Benjamin Harrison created a forest preserve in the region in 1893. Roosevelt significantly increased protection in 1906 by designating the region as the Grand Canyon Game Preserve through a presidential proclamation. He designated the region a national monument two years later.

Even though the area was secure, Roosevelt was unable to secure authority to establish the Grand Canyon National Park; official approval didn’t arrive until 1919, under Woodrow Wilson’s administration.

7. IN 1902, THE FIRST AUTOMOBILE ARRIVED AT THE GRAND CANYON’S SOUTH RIM. THE DRIVE FROM FLAGSTAFF TOOK FIVE DAYS TO COMPLETE.
8. THE CANYON WAS THE LOCATION OF A GIGANTIC HOAX IN 1909

According to the Arizona Gazette, two Smithsonian affiliate archaeologists found evidence of an ancient Tibetan or Egyptian civilization in a tunnel beneath the canyon. The Smithsonian refuted the entirety of the story, saying they were unaware of the archaeologists. Conspiracy theorists continue to hold the persistent conviction that the Smithsonian discovered and covered a treasure’s cave of wonder despite the lack of supporting proof.

9. THE GRAND CANYON IS THE REASON FOR THE EXISTENCE OF THE FEDERAL AVIATION ADMINISTRATION

Commercial aircraft frequently made detours over the park in the 1950s to give passengers a chance to see the wonder. But a catastrophic collision between two of these aircraft occurred in 1956. In the history of commercial flying in America, it was the deadliest crash. The U.S. Congress established the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) a short time later to improve aviation security.

10. EACH YEAR, NEARLY 5 MILLION VISITORS COME TO GRAND CANYON.

The Grand Canyon is one of the most popular national parks in the U.S. It is the second-most visited national park in the country, just behind the Great Smoky Mountains of North Carolina and Tennessee, with an estimated 5 million visitors annually. When the park was first established in 1919, there were only 44,173 visitors.